"RyanFrew" (ryanfrew)
04/01/2016 at 09:00 • Filed to: Haggle
2
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"RyanFrew" (ryanfrew)
04/01/2016 at 09:00 • Filed to: Haggle | 2
| 26 |
Last time I purchased a used car, I was in college and I paid the asking price because the salesman just swore he would buy it if I didn’t (yeah, I’m a dumbass). So now that it’s time to negotiate again, I want to do it right, but I’m unsure of what reasonable.
So, on a percentage basis, how much were you able to knock off of the asking price of your used car? And, if it’s not too personal, how much were you able to knock off in total dollars?
Nibby
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:05 |
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Always strive for removing the sticker price altogether.
Dru
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:08 |
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It's been 5 years since I bought a car, but when I did, the dealer wanted like 13K and change before the dealer add on charges. Offered them a check (from my credit union) for 12K out the door and I got a quick yes. So roughly 10% off asking price.
Textured Soy Protein
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:10 |
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Look up the values on Edmunds & KBB. Offer $1000 less than the lower of the two numbers. The sales guy will say he has to talk to his manager. He’ll come back with some number like $500-1000 below their asking price. Act like that’s a shitty discount and raise your number by $400. He’ll act like his number is great, you say “well all I want to pay is the first number I told you, now I’m coming up some, I’m being reasonable." He’ll go talk to his manager and maybe bring the manager over. Eventually you “let” them talk you up to something in the ballpark of the lower of the KBB or Edmunds number. If they don’t give you a number you like, don’t buy the car.
Arrivederci
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:11 |
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It always depends, honestly. The last used car I bought was a Lexus IS, and I was able to get them to take $1000 off and then overpay on my trade.
Your best bet is to look at other examples of what you’re hoping to negotiate on, find ones with similar year/model/mileage/equipment and put them in a spreadsheet to use as a negotiating tool. If you have a trade, do the same there to find out what your car is actually worth.
Party-vi
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:11 |
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I managed to knock-off -11%, meaning those fuckers added a $1,000 dealer prep fee and I was like “nah” and then they were all “we got it last week if you don’t want it then fuck you” and I was all like “...aight.”
shop-teacher
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:15 |
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In the age of the Internet, I’ve found that dealers aren’t willing to come off of their “internet” prices very much. Last time I bought one, they all had the same logic for sticking close to their price, “If this wasn’t a good price already, you wouldn’t even be here talking to us.” They were right, too. Best I was able to do was $700 off the price advertised on the Internet.
Master Cylinder
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:16 |
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I have had terrible luck negotiating with dealers, but I do OK on private party sales. I knocked 13% off the price of the last motorcycle I bought (from $3100 to $2700) and got the seller to throw in a bunch of extra parts too. On my car I saved 14% ($2900 to $2500) and got the factory toolkit, tire inflator, owner’s manual, and half a dozen oil filters tossed in (yeah, it was probably gonna go with the car anyway but hey).
duurtlang
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:22 |
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From my current cars?
The Galant was offered for a fixed €500 price. I just paid the man. It was worth it. 0%
My current DD was €3750, 3.5 years and >100k km ago. I paid €3000. 20%
205 CTI project car: Asked for €1500 I believe. I paid €1150. 23%.
I don’t really recall the rest.
Shankems
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:23 |
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Nothing! In addition, I BOUGHT THE EXTENDED WARRANTY!
Supreme Chancellor and Glorious Leader SaveTheIntegras
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:24 |
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They wanted to not budge on the internet price, still got 300 off which was fine
Aaron M - MasoFiST
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:29 |
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I’ll be honest, I paid asking price.
I also paid $2500 less than the next cheapest one available. And mine had fewer miles. Right now of all the stick 128i options in Boston, the only one with roughly the same number of miles as mine is selling for $5000 more...and the only one selling for what I paid has 50,000 more miles.
So yeah, I paid asking price. But I did OK.
rockingthe2
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:32 |
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My latest acquisition was pretty nice, I paid $3400 of the $5500 asking price. I did pay a guy $500 over his asking price for my MR2 to replace the valve cover gaskets and change the oil, along with a few other things. But that car has been almost entirely dependable, even with racing it.
Autohaus Derp
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:40 |
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I’m happy if I get to around 10%. Thats what I managed with my mustang.
MountainRoadPhysicist
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:44 |
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Talked the price of the M3 down by about 13%. Went from a reasonable dealer price to a really good price that I could have gotten from an individual seller (would have needed to worry about shipping if I got it from an individual too).
Meatcoma
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:46 |
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10% is normally pretty easy to get. I normally start at 20% off their asking price. If they are asking 15k I offer 12k, they will scoff at that, but if you buy a car that is either about to become a year older or mileage that is close to being over the 12k/year then you can bargain that as well. Last used car I bought we got them from 15k to 13k(started at 12), I used the fact it was near the years end and that car would be a year older and lose value, not to mention that it was just about to crest 75k miles which would drop the ‘worth’ even more and then just before we signed the papers I got them to cut 1% off the interest rate for the loan.
I’d say go to a local bank and ask about financing and see what kind of interest rates they can give you before going to the dealer. That way you have something to compare to. Also make sure you look at craigslist/autotrader to see what comparable vehicles are going for. Everyone always wants more than what it’s really worth but some will have more wiggle room than others.
Be ready to walk. If you can’t walk away, they won’t give you much.
Sir_Stig: and toxic masculinity ruins the party again.
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:49 |
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About the cost of the rubber mats.
I am not good at negotiating.
It was during ford family and friends pricing so that was the main reason why.
Chasaboo
> shop-teacher
04/01/2016 at 09:57 |
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I agree, I’ve tried to buy used BMWs from dealers and they absolutely refuse to lower their price.
EL_ULY
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 09:57 |
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Because I got 2 things, both ended a tad under $14k :]
I fought for the first car and then out of nowhere, I chose another demanding a drop if I take it off their hands right there and then as well.... success :]
JKER
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 10:11 |
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Most recently, I bought a truck from a used car dealership. They had it listed for $5k at the lot, but 4500 as the online ‘sale’ price. I negotiated down to 3800.
kanadanmajava1
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 10:18 |
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I have bought only one car from a dealership. It was ‘77 Opel Kadett C. The asking price was 850€ but I drove away with it for 300€ after I promised not to come back and complain. I drove with for several years. This happened in ~2005.
Klaus Schmoll
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 10:42 |
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10% seem reasonable and easy to get. When I bought my Honda it was advertised online for 2750, but the window said 2650 IIRC. I kind of knew he wanted something like 2400 and thought that this was a good deal. I asked what the “real” price was, he said 2400 and we shook hands. So no actual negotiating on my part.
Chariotoflove
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 10:51 |
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I think I got 11 or 12% off and 0% financing on our last car.
Slant6
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 11:04 |
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I was able to buy a Saab 9-5 with an asking price of $500 for $400. 20% off
I was able to buy a Saab 9-3 convertible with an asking price of $1200 for $750. 37.5% off
I was able to buy a Toyota Tacoma 4x4 with an asking price of $1700 for $1400. 18% off
TheNeonDriver - Now with More BMW!
> Chasaboo
04/01/2016 at 11:10 |
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I got the price of my last CPO BMW to drop $2,000 + the price of the warranty, so $3,500 in all. However, I still overpaid something along the lines of $3-4000. Sigh...
Shour, Aloof and Obnoxious
> RyanFrew
04/01/2016 at 15:03 |
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My LS400 was listed online at $4500. After the test drive, I asked if he would take $3800. He sat at his computer and futzed about for a couple minutes before saying, “Lowest I can do is four flat.” How delightful - that’s what I wanted to pay!
After TTL, it was close to $4400 anyhow, which is the whole reason I wanted to get him down to $4k.
Full of the sound of the Gran Fury, signifying nothing.
> RyanFrew
04/11/2016 at 10:21 |
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I bought a $21,000 Mazda5 for a little over $17,000. It was past the end of the 2012 model year, and the dealer’s loss-leader was still on the lot. They kept it around so that they could advertise it dirt-cheap. People would come in with the ad wanting to see that particular car at that price, and then would be upsold to something else when they saw the manual transmission, cloth interior, 16" wheels, etc. What I didn’t tell them was that was exactly the car I wanted. I can add the other junk, if I want it, but I can’t easily add a manual transmission to a new car.
We started the whole negotiation process, and they offered to sell it to me for $19,000. I whipped out the iPad and showed them their own ad. The salesman took that ad to his manager and they agreed to sell it to me for the advertised price. In retrospect I felt like I might have been able to get a better price if I had offered less than what was advertised, but since I got nearly a 20% discount off of list on a new car I guess I really shouldn’t complain. They did add tinted windows for $400, but I was going to do that anyway, and considering the price the last time I had a car tinted I felt like that was acceptable, especially considering how many windows are on this thing.
EDIT: Oops - I didn’t see that you asked about used cars. It’s still early, I don’t have my glasses on, and when I saw the lead picture (dealership and what is assumed to be a salesdork) in the article I just assumed new.